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This is an article on How To acuminate your auger shaver blades at home the correct way with nothing but hand tools� If I get my hand on another chipper blade I volition write that up as well� Feel complimentary to ask any questions about other types or shapes of shaver blades but the concept will remain the same...
Showtime off, Please continue this article clean� Every bit in please don�t post how You would do this and �muddy upward� my methods� I am spending a lot of time hither writing and uploading pictures showing and sharing my techniques every bit a professional person� Feel gratuitous to click �New Topic� and write your techniques up� I have total access to a automobile shop but I am showing y'all how to practise this merely as good without any expensive equipment�
I am going to be using terminology that anybody tin understand, please don�t be the smart guy and right me, I am doing it on purpose for ease of understanding� I volition add together as I feel necessary if I accidently leave of import info out...
Lastly, This is a technique that is learned through do, don�t expect to get it correct the first fourth dimension, although if you follow closely you just might!� If yous take your time to get it right yous volition feel rewarded for your efforts and you volition exist very happy with the issue� I suggest using an old set of blades for do� Likewise read directions thoroughly before attempting�
***And equally with any blade or tool, PLEASE use caution, You don't want to end up in the hospital getting stitches
Too Much care is needed in maintaining the edge when this process is complete... Always utilize the blade guard when you are not cutting ice... And Always thoroughly dry and oil blades when stored over night or for long periods of time... This will help maintain your border and is well worth the actress try to cut holes efficiently every outing...
Let�south get started�
First I would like to squash a couple of the myths nearly sharpening auger blades�
Myth#1: When sharpening auger blades, you lot have to get the bending only like the manufactory or it volition not cut well�
Truth: This is far from the truth, I can hear the hooting and hollering now because this is all I hear� Merely the truth is you tin can change the angles all you want (within reason of a good cutting edge) and take an auger that cuts astonishing for a long, long fourth dimension� If there was one particular type of edge (angle) that cuts bully, all auger blades would wait identical� I know where this myth stems from� Read on�
Myth#2: When sharpening auger blades if you don�t keep the correct angles the auger will walk�
Truth: The reason the auger will walk is because one bract is bitter more than the other� This can be due to a bent blade mount, ane blade is badly dinged or deadening, or one was ground more than than the other in the sharpening process leaving it floating just in a higher place the other while the other cuts in and thus, the auger spins off to ane side�
Now that nosotros�ve squashed that stuff, Let�s get your auger cutting ice as if it were warm butter�
Here we take a terribly unkempt prepare of vi� strikemaster blades� We have chips, dings, rust, they�re about as sharp every bit a turd� Yes they become through viii� of ice in just over a minute of fighting and applying moderate down pressure only for it to skip and bite and let go again, that�southward unacceptable� I was out with these on Thursday� The auger belongs to a friend, it�s 10 years old NEVER sharpened!
Here is a closer film notice the large bevel (secondary edge) and and so notice the tiny piffling bevel on the border? This is the important function, information technology�s the main edge only here we are going to remove information technology completely�
And so allow�s talk about how these things cut�
They cut by spinning on the ice and biting in� While biting into the ice, it�s shaved or broken away and pushed upwardly over the bract so information technology rides up the auger and out of the hole� When the auger blades become dull this doesn�t happen� Why? Because the blades edge has been worn, aptitude, dinged, rusted, etc�
Here we accept the bottom side of the blade (the function that faces the water ice whilst cutting)�
We Practise Not bear upon this part of the blade by whatever means in the sharpening process� I don�t care if at that place�s rust, a burr or you lot remember at that place might be a genie within and you will get iii wishes by rubbing information technology on your honing rock, we don�t bear on this! Menstruum! Why? Think of it as a wood chisel, we�re shaving wood with our chisel and you outset to angle the handle downwardly toward the lumber, what happens? The chisel rides up and out of the lumber and won't cutting in at that angle� This is changing the �angle of assail� on the material� Removing any cloth on this lesser side of the blade would do the same thing� So unless you plan on shimming your blades to correct the �bending of attack� DO NOT remove any material from this side of the blade! Period! Some myths can stem from here also, sharpening the lesser of the blades at the wrong angle will not allow them to cut. ..
Plenty jibber jabber, let�s get to work hither�
What y'all�ll need
iii stones, a coarse, a medium, a fine honing rock and a rag (use your discretion when you need to wipe the blades with a rag)� And a prepare of Blades of course�
I take a few sets, oil, some I use dry and I also have water stones... Simply I never oil a class stone, I just don't like it... Had some spill in one case, stone went in the trash... But the medium and fine y'all tin can oil or use h2o depending on the type of stones you have, I won't exist using anything in this article (dry stones), and the outcome will still be amazing...
***If you feel your blades merely demand a quick touch up, proceed to Footstep iv***
Step ane
Nosotros�re going to starting time by grinding all the crap, burrs, dings and chips out of the secondary bevel� This wide bevel is only for clearance to strop a cut edge� It�south only purpose is to make it easy for the cut edge to exist honed on and for material to be cut to pass over� That being said, it can be 20, 25, 30, 21, 27 degrees� So pay no attention to the myths you lot�ve heard but we�ll become with the factory�s cut so we take to remove equally little material as possible and apply information technology to keep our angle consant� WHAT Nosotros DO TO 1 BLADE WE MUST Exercise TO THE OTHER, run across myth #two
Lay the bract flat on your coarse stone so that the side that faces you when y'all cut is Confront Downwards and the cutting border is facing you lot� So roll information technology upwardly until you feel it hit the flat of the bevel�
Like this�
Nosotros are going to drag the blade forth the fibroid stone with the blade toward you lot� This motility should look like you are trying to shave a sticker off of the stone� The motion should menses like this� Apply TWO HANDS, I didn�t accept three at the fourth dimension soooo�
1.
ii.
3.
Over again with 2 hands all while keeping perfectly flat on the bevel (this bevel is so wide it's pretty easy to stay flat at that bending)� Don�t let the edge bite into the stone� DON�T curl the blade upward toward you, you will make more work for yourself� Printing lightly and once you develop the musculus memory you can beginning to move heavier and faster simply have your fourth dimension� Nosotros depict the stone this mode because if you pull AWAY from the edge y'all volition remove or drag microscopic pieces of metal from the edge causing micro serrations and that will hinder the final step... Nosotros desire all that material there...
Nosotros are going to run this motion and go any rust off� Be sure through the unabridged process that you are getting to both corners of the bract, on all steps, getting to the corners without rolling them over, it well-nigh feels like you are picking the blade up to get to them... A practiced way to check is to flip the bract over and make sure yous are removing material in that location, over again, without rolling over the left or correct edge... Just plenty to go in that location, don't over do it and roll the edge...
And then I run this move�
1.
Drag the blade directly down the stone on the same bevel once more keeping it perfectly flat on the bevel, these grinds are washed while holding the blade perpendicular to the stones length� (90 degrees)
2.
And then do the middle
three.
Then the other cease, working back and along as such
Y'all will see that yous tin rock the blade while staying apartment on that bevel every bit you�re running this movement� Do so when you feel comfortable all while keeping the blade perpendicular to the rock� Do this until you accept removed all chips dings and principal border� Yous will feel a pocket-size burr form on the Lesser of the blade (side that faces the ice while cutting) This is good, you need to grind until a burr forms along the entire edge, otherwise you are wasting your time, the burr indicates that y'all accept removed enough material to movement on...
You will end up with something like this, yep this is the aforementioned blade! We can do by hand what a machine tin can exercise� No more chips, dings, rust or primary edge�
This is where most people stop and think they have a great border and virtually likely where the myths stem from... They get it to this bespeak and it doesn't piece of work so they blame it on the angles being wrong, well it is non a keen edge, it is weak and will probably get through about 2� of ice before going wearisome... This edge shaves pilus off my arm easily (I tested it before moving on) Well-nigh people recall this means sharp well yeah, its sharp but it'due south not going to last long at all... The very edge is too sparse and will roll upwardly upon applying any amount of pressure...
I said what we do to i nosotros have to do to the other... Here'due south a good manner to cheque and now is the time to do information technology...
I bolted the ii blades together, This shows us that they are basically the same, (I forgot to take a flick when I checked after I grinded, this is from when I checked the condition beforehand incase whatever extra grinding on one was needed) but even here from the mill 1 drops off a bit, non terribly but we'll fix it...
Step 2
Much similar the first step nosotros are going to grind the bract on the rock the same manner every bit the 2d motion but we are going to use a medium stone... Aforementioned angle until it'southward polished 
Step 3
And same verbal thing on the honing stone, Once more till it'southward polished...
Well even more people will stop here... They will come across a prissy mirror polish, shave hair very easily but they will get the same outcome every bit I spoke of before, junk after one hole...
Step 4
Now nosotros are going to hone a primary border on the bract... This is the VERY important angle we are going to grind on... It can be 28 degrees (wont last every bit long) or 45 degrees (will last much longer but may non bite as well) both tin can be VERY sharp... This is because in that location will be more textile �backing upward� the edge with a thicker more obtuse 45 degree bending than that of a skinny acute 28 degree angle... For water ice annihilation from about 38-xl degrees should be sufficient and terminal a very long time... But, this angle could be 35 degrees and still concluding quite some fourth dimension, 32, 42, 37 degrees, all these angles will cut swell, simply to support the truth behind the myth... Ideally though, nosotros are looking for 38-xl degrees for an auger to retain a great edge and not sacrifice longevity... Whatever angle is chosen, MUST remain constant through the honing procedure or the blade volition non cut to its full potential...
We are going to have the blade and identify it on the stone again on the secondary bevel, only this fourth dimension nosotros are going to roll it up to about 38-40 degrees
From this
To somewhere around here
From here we are going to strop the primary border using the starting time motion (the sweeping describe shave motility from one side to the other, �shaving the sticker off�, you will feel some resistance here on the first pass or 2, nosotros are pushing ever so slightly to strop this edge on... Some use oil on the stone here, sometimes I do sometimes I don't, light hair clipper oil volition work great, or any actually light oil... Information technology is supposed to assistance in floating abroad metal particles so the bract doesn't get microscopically dinged or scratched by them... In that location'south a lot of controversy over this, it's about fifty/50... Sometimes when it just doesn't seem to get REAL sharp I'll toss some oil downwardly on a rock I have already oiled...
It is VERY important here to MAINTAIN the bending, if yous scroll up you will be working confronting what you are trying to achieve... Make yourself some type of jig if needed, I don't utilise one but I have been doing this for a really long time...
When You lot're washed you should have something similar this
Meet that? A overnice smoooooth primary edge on an nigh mirror like secondary edge... The primary border merely needs to be about as wide as a thick slice of thread at maximum, this will make it easier to remove information technology on the adjacent sharpening making for much less textile to be removed... From here in that location will nonetheless be a slight burr on the bottom, Practise Not Bear on IT!!! you will have worked manner too difficult to get this far and go grinding that off... yous will experience compelled to use the honing rock thinking eh wont exist that bad... Might also go drill a hole in your driveway... Go out information technology alone, most people would be like a dog with a scab... Simply leave it, it is a thin ribbon of metallic that will fall off after the first few holes... If I feel compelled I will add how to strop off the burr, merely like I said information technology volition autumn off and not affect the auger one bit... We're cutting ice that shaves, chips and breaks, not plastic or woods... If you feel compelled to remove information technology, Hone the edge with a leather belt, like the old timers with their straight razors bending the burr back and forth and it will fall off...
The effect? Went from i infinitesimal + while pushing down on the auger through viii� of water ice bitter and letting go, to 16 seconds through just over a fourteen� of ice... This is with admittedly ZERO down force per unit area other than the weight of the auger, and ZERO centering bug (no walking)... I drilled 3 holes and just allow my �pinnacle� arm barely balance... An extreme difference and JUST AS GOOD As NEW BLADES that volition last a damn long fourth dimension...
When reinstalling blades, I ALWAYS like to put a good marine grade grease on all mating surfaces... water volition hibernate in hither and corrode the blades and bolts. ..
This took me virtually an hr (While taking pictures plainly) to complete, I have more pictures but didn't feel the need to post everything, it was very tough grabbing the right calorie-free and I hope you tin meet everything ok... This has taken me FOREVER to type and I had upload bug... I will add together more necessary information over the adjacent few days, for at present here are the basics...
And so there nosotros go, a couple myths squashed, Overnice freakin abrupt blades and...
Oh expect, one other myth...
Myth: You lot can't sharpen auger blades at domicile they will just never cut like new ones
Truth: YOU CAN!!! and they will cutting just like new!!! 
Topic: Sharpen your auger blades at abode!! (Read 83028 times)
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