How To Sharpen Jiffy Ice Auger Blades

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Topic: Sharpen your auger blades at abode!! (Read 83028 times)

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This is an article on How To acuminate your auger shaver blades at home the correct way with nothing but hand tools� If I get my hand on another chipper blade I volition write that up as well� Feel complimentary to ask any questions about other types or shapes of shaver blades but the concept will remain the same...

Showtime off, Please continue this article clean� Every bit in please don�t post how You would do this and �muddy upward� my methods� I am spending a lot of time hither writing and uploading pictures showing and sharing my techniques every bit a professional person� Feel gratuitous to click �New Topic� and write your techniques up� I have total access to a automobile shop but I am showing y'all how to practise this merely as good without any expensive equipment�

I am going to be using terminology that anybody tin understand, please don�t be the smart guy and right me, I am doing it on purpose for ease of understanding� I volition add together as I feel necessary if I accidently leave of import info out...

Lastly, This is a technique that is learned through do, don�t expect to get it correct the first fourth dimension, although if you follow closely you just might!� If yous take your time to get it right yous volition feel rewarded for your efforts and you volition exist very happy with the issue� I suggest using an old set of blades for do� Likewise read directions thoroughly before attempting�

***And equally with any blade or tool, PLEASE use caution, You don't want to end up in the hospital getting stitches

Too Much care is needed in maintaining the edge when this process is complete... Always utilize the blade guard when you are not cutting ice... And Always thoroughly dry and oil blades when stored over night or for long periods of time... This will help maintain your border and is well worth the actress try to cut holes efficiently every outing...

Let�south get started�

First I would like to squash a couple of the myths nearly sharpening auger blades�
Myth#1: When sharpening auger blades, you lot have to get the bending only like the manufactory or it volition not cut well�
Truth: This is far from the truth, I can hear the hooting and hollering now because this is all I hear� Merely the truth is you tin can change the angles all you want (within reason of a good cutting edge) and take an auger that cuts astonishing for a long, long fourth dimension� If there was one particular type of edge (angle) that cuts bully, all auger blades would wait identical� I know where this myth stems from� Read on�

Myth#2: When sharpening auger blades if you don�t keep the correct angles the auger will walk�
Truth: The reason the auger will walk is because one bract is bitter more than the other� This can be due to a bent blade mount, ane blade is badly dinged or deadening, or one was ground more than than the other in the sharpening process leaving it floating just in a higher place the other while the other cuts in and thus, the auger spins off to ane side�

Now that nosotros�ve squashed that stuff, Let�s get your auger cutting ice as if it were warm butter�

Here we take a terribly unkempt prepare of vi� strikemaster blades� We have chips, dings, rust, they�re about as sharp every bit a turd� Yes they become through viii� of ice in just over a minute of fighting and applying moderate down pressure only for it to skip and bite and let go again, that�southward unacceptable� I was out with these on Thursday� The auger belongs to a friend, it�s 10 years old NEVER sharpened!

Here is a closer film notice the large bevel (secondary edge) and and so notice the tiny piffling bevel on the border? This is the important function, information technology�s the main edge only here we are going to remove information technology completely�

And so allow�s talk about how these things cut�
They cut by spinning on the ice and biting in� While biting into the ice, it�s shaved or broken away and pushed upwardly over the bract so information technology rides up the auger and out of the hole� When the auger blades become dull this doesn�t happen� Why? Because the blades edge has been worn, aptitude, dinged, rusted, etc�

Here we accept the bottom side of the blade (the function that faces the water ice whilst cutting)�

We Practise Not bear upon this part of the blade by whatever means in the sharpening process� I don�t care if at that place�s rust, a burr or you lot remember at that place might be a genie within and you will get iii wishes by rubbing information technology on your honing rock, we don�t bear on this! Menstruum! Why? Think of it as a wood chisel, we�re shaving wood with our chisel and you outset to angle the handle downwardly toward the lumber, what happens? The chisel rides up and out of the lumber and won't cutting in at that angle� This is changing the �angle of assail� on the material� Removing any cloth on this lesser side of the blade would do the same thing� So unless you plan on shimming your blades to correct the �bending of attack� DO NOT remove any material from this side of the blade! Period! Some myths can stem from here also, sharpening the lesser of the blades at the wrong angle will not allow them to cut. ..

Plenty jibber jabber, let�s get to work hither�

What y'all�ll need
iii stones, a coarse, a medium, a fine honing rock and a rag (use your discretion when you need to wipe the blades with a rag)� And a prepare of Blades of course�

I take a few sets, oil, some I use dry and I also have water stones... Simply I never oil a class stone, I just don't like it... Had some spill in one case, stone went in the trash... But the medium and fine y'all tin can oil or use h2o depending on the type of stones you have, I won't exist using anything in this article (dry stones), and the outcome will still be amazing...

***If you feel your blades merely demand a quick touch up, proceed to Footstep iv***

Step ane
Nosotros�re going to starting time by grinding all the crap, burrs, dings and chips out of the secondary bevel� This wide bevel is only for clearance to strop a cut edge� It�south only purpose is to make it easy for the cut edge to exist honed on and for material to be cut to pass over� That being said, it can be 20, 25, 30, 21, 27 degrees� So pay no attention to the myths you lot�ve heard but we�ll become with the factory�s cut so we take to remove equally little material as possible and apply information technology to keep our angle consant� WHAT Nosotros DO TO 1 BLADE WE MUST Exercise TO THE OTHER, run across myth #two

Lay the bract flat on your coarse stone so that the side that faces you when y'all cut is Confront Downwards and the cutting border is facing you lot� So roll information technology upwardly until you feel it hit the flat of the bevel�
Like this�

Nosotros are going to drag the blade forth the fibroid stone with the blade toward you lot� This motility should look like you are trying to shave a sticker off of the stone� The motion should menses like this� Apply TWO HANDS, I didn�t accept three at the fourth dimension soooo�

1.

ii.

3.

Over again with 2 hands all while keeping perfectly flat on the bevel (this bevel is so wide it's pretty easy to stay flat at that bending)� Don�t let the edge bite into the stone� DON�T curl the blade upward toward you, you will make more work for yourself� Printing lightly and once you develop the musculus memory you can beginning to move heavier and faster simply have your fourth dimension� Nosotros depict the stone this mode because if you pull AWAY from the edge y'all volition remove or drag microscopic pieces of metal from the edge causing micro serrations and that will hinder the final step... Nosotros desire all that material there...

Nosotros are going to run this motion and go any rust off� Be sure through the unabridged process that you are getting to both corners of the bract, on all steps, getting to the corners without rolling them over, it well-nigh feels like you are picking the blade up to get to them... A practiced way to check is to flip the bract over and make sure yous are removing material in that location, over again, without rolling over the left or correct edge... Just plenty to go in that location, don't over do it and roll the edge...

And then I run this move�
1.
Drag the blade directly down the stone on the same bevel once more keeping it perfectly flat on the bevel, these grinds are washed while holding the blade perpendicular to the stones length� (90 degrees)

2.
And then do the middle

three.
Then the other cease, working back and along as such

Y'all will see that yous tin rock the blade while staying apartment on that bevel every bit you�re running this movement� Do so when you feel comfortable all while keeping the blade perpendicular to the rock� Do this until you accept removed all chips dings and principal border� Yous will feel a pocket-size burr form on the Lesser of the blade (side that faces the ice while cutting) This is good, you need to grind until a burr forms along the entire edge, otherwise you are wasting your time, the burr indicates that y'all accept removed enough material to movement on...

You will end up with something like this, yep this is the aforementioned blade! We can do by hand what a machine tin can exercise� No more chips, dings, rust or primary edge�

This is where most people stop and think they have a great border and virtually likely where the myths stem from... They get it to this bespeak and it doesn't piece of work so they blame it on the angles being wrong, well it is non a keen edge, it is weak and will probably get through about 2� of ice before going wearisome... This edge shaves pilus off my arm easily (I tested it before moving on) Well-nigh people recall this means sharp well yeah, its sharp but it'due south not going to last long at all... The very edge is too sparse and will roll upwardly upon applying any amount of pressure...

I said what we do to i nosotros have to do to the other... Here'due south a good manner to cheque and now is the time to do information technology...
I bolted the ii blades together, This shows us that they are basically the same, (I forgot to take a flick when I checked after I grinded, this is from when I checked the condition beforehand incase whatever extra grinding on one was needed) but even here from the mill 1 drops off a bit, non terribly but we'll fix it...

Step 2
Much similar the first step nosotros are going to grind the bract on the rock the same manner every bit the 2d motion but we are going to use a medium stone... Aforementioned angle until it'southward polished

Step 3
And same verbal thing on the honing stone, Once more till it'southward polished...

Well even more people will stop here... They will come across a prissy mirror polish, shave hair very easily but they will get the same outcome every bit I spoke of before, junk after one hole...

Step 4
Now nosotros are going to hone a primary border on the bract... This is the VERY important angle we are going to grind on... It can be 28 degrees (wont last every bit long) or 45 degrees (will last much longer but may non bite as well) both tin can be VERY sharp... This is because in that location will be more textile �backing upward� the edge with a thicker more obtuse 45 degree bending than that of a skinny acute 28 degree angle... For water ice annihilation from about 38-xl degrees should be sufficient and terminal a very long time... But, this angle could be 35 degrees and still concluding quite some fourth dimension, 32, 42, 37 degrees, all these angles will cut swell, simply to support the truth behind the myth... Ideally though, nosotros are looking for 38-xl degrees for an auger to retain a great edge and not sacrifice longevity... Whatever angle is chosen, MUST remain constant through the honing procedure or the blade volition non cut to its full potential...

We are going to have the blade and identify it on the stone again on the secondary bevel, only this fourth dimension nosotros are going to roll it up to about 38-40 degrees
From this

To somewhere around here

From here we are going to strop the primary border using the starting time motion (the sweeping describe shave motility from one side to the other, �shaving the sticker off�, you will feel some resistance here on the first pass or 2, nosotros are pushing ever so slightly to strop this edge on... Some use oil on the stone here, sometimes I do sometimes I don't, light hair clipper oil volition work great, or any actually light oil... Information technology is supposed to assistance in floating abroad metal particles so the bract doesn't get microscopically dinged or scratched by them... In that location'south a lot of controversy over this, it's about fifty/50... Sometimes when it just doesn't seem to get REAL sharp I'll toss some oil downwardly on a rock I have already oiled...

It is VERY important here to MAINTAIN the bending, if yous scroll up you will be working confronting what you are trying to achieve... Make yourself some type of jig if needed, I don't utilise one but I have been doing this for a really long time...
When You lot're washed you should have something similar this

Meet that? A overnice smoooooth primary edge on an nigh mirror like secondary edge... The primary border merely needs to be about as wide as a thick slice of thread at maximum, this will make it easier to remove information technology on the adjacent sharpening making for much less textile to be removed... From here in that location will nonetheless be a slight burr on the bottom, Practise Not Bear on IT!!! you will have worked manner too difficult to get this far and go grinding that off... yous will experience compelled to use the honing rock thinking eh wont exist that bad... Might also go drill a hole in your driveway... Go out information technology alone, most people would be like a dog with a scab... Simply leave it, it is a thin ribbon of metallic that will fall off after the first few holes... If I feel compelled I will add how to strop off the burr, merely like I said information technology volition autumn off and not affect the auger one bit... We're cutting ice that shaves, chips and breaks, not plastic or woods... If you feel compelled to remove information technology, Hone the edge with a leather belt, like the old timers with their straight razors bending the burr back and forth and it will fall off...

The effect? Went from i infinitesimal + while pushing down on the auger through viii� of water ice bitter and letting go, to 16 seconds through just over a fourteen� of ice... This is with admittedly ZERO down force per unit area other than the weight of the auger, and ZERO centering bug (no walking)... I drilled 3 holes and just allow my �pinnacle� arm barely balance... An extreme difference and JUST AS GOOD As NEW BLADES that volition last a damn long fourth dimension...

When reinstalling blades, I ALWAYS like to put a good marine grade grease on all mating surfaces... water volition hibernate in hither and corrode the blades and bolts. ..

This took me virtually an hr (While taking pictures plainly) to complete, I have more pictures but didn't feel the need to post everything, it was very tough grabbing the right calorie-free and I hope you tin meet everything ok... This has taken me FOREVER to type and I had upload bug... I will add together more necessary information over the adjacent few days, for at present here are the basics...

And so there nosotros go, a couple myths squashed, Overnice freakin abrupt blades and...
Oh expect, one other myth...
Myth: You lot can't sharpen auger blades at domicile they will just never cut like new ones
Truth: YOU CAN!!! and they will cutting just like new!!!

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Chipper blade on ability augers...
Same concept applies.... secondary border master edge... any angle within reason of a skilful cutting edge... simply maintain angles throughout the process...

***Read thoroughly before attempting, all steps are Not needed to cut ice efficiently***

I won't go into great item here because the concept of grinding a good edge is above (read the higher up post thoroughly for tips)... Using the post above and this 1 you should be able to do this....

Hither I like to polish the "top" of these blades... keeping the bract perfectly apartment nosotros tin slide it lengthwise on the stone till a polish smoothen is accomplished. .. usually only the light stone will practice only if a fibroid rock or newspaper is needed, work up to a 1200-2000 grit... After yous smoothen to a fine grit, don't go dorsum down in grit... Some would say this is a terrible idea merely I practise this cuz I know what I'm doing... Stay abroad from this step if you don't know what you're doing it is not needed I'm but a piffling obsessive...

***This is the only step needed on these blades... the angle is important here working to progressively lighter grits...***. ..
Here is an example of using something as a guide to maintain bending... 2 neodymium magnets (one each corner) offer the perfect bending to grind (see how flat the border sits) you can use whatever here as long as the edge sits flat (paint the unabridged border with a sharpie to see if you lot're grinding the whole surface evenly, if you're non removing the sharpie along the unabridged plane adjustment is needed). .. otherwise yous'll be grinding a while to build your burr if your grinding only part of the edges plane or perhaps changing the angle for the worse... I didn't employ em but as an example they piece of work. .. We're looking for virtually xv degrees from the blade mountain on this detail blade. .. this step move simply similar above "shaving the sticker off" till y'all build your burr along the top length of each tooth the burr is EXTREMELY Of import this means you've taken enough textile... never elevate back...

^^This photo is for farther explanation... I added the profile of a wood chisel and angled the bract upward similar it would be if it were cutting ice... You see here why bending is important... If you modify the angle on the blade information technology would be like changing the angle of the woods chisel in the material to be cutting (moving the chisels handle closer or further from the wood)... Making the angle more than acute only makes for a thinner, weaker border. .. By right we could acuminate the auger blade like a wood chisel by grinding the meridian and non worry so much about bending like the shaver blades above, merely as you can encounter here by the dotted line we'd be thinning the blades profile with each sharpening and weaken it substantially because the blade doesn't run on that plane like the shaver blades or wood chisel so we need to sharpen from the bottom keeping the correct angle... This is where the sharpie comes into play to make sure you are taking material evenly with the mill grind... don't allow it scare yous off, a couple degrees isn't gonna kill the performance but stay within reason... practise makes perfect and have your time, mark the blade often if you feel the need to...

Honing the chief border... choice the blade up to well-nigh 38-40 degrees. .. maintain this and hone the primary border on the Top! of the bract (Non the side nosotros merely basis)... Once again here some would say terrible idea. .. And again I do this considering I know what I'grand doing. .. Stay abroad from this if you don't, it's not needed but I exercise this to almost microscopically fatten upward the cut edge so it's stronger and the edge volition terminal much longer... The pros say don't touch this side of the bract, I say hey, I know what I'm doing...

Nosotros want a shine secondary and chief border... the primary edge should be about the thickness of a piece of thread... this will make for less work grinding on the adjacent sharpening. ..

After I'chiliad done I like to use a rust preventive black paint on the "peak" of the bract from polishing... this will keep rust at bay through the season...

This auger went from not cutting AT ALL unless you literally laid on it to cutting through 4" of ice in 4 seconds flat under its own weight. .. pretty good I'd say. ..

When reinstalling blades, I ALWAYS similar to put a skilful marine grade grease on all mating surfaces... water will hibernate in here and corrode the blades and bolts. ..

And your washed.... using the steps from above and this post y'all should be able to sharpen these two types of blades with ease...

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This post is for further explanation on sharpening blades... I fabricated these on my phone and so hopefully the details are able to exist seen. Zoom in if necessary. .. I tin can see the details on my telephone, if you can't pm me and maybe I tin remake them but I'd rather not haha. ..

This photograph is a sharp chipper bract... Find information technology comes to a fine point... This is ideal, the blade will seize with teeth in and shave ice easily. ..

This photo is of a dulled chipper blade. .. Notice how the very edge is worn downwards to the same plane every bit the ice... This will still feel very sharp maybe even shave hair but the bottom bending is wrong... the angle of attack which I spoke of in the other posts has changed... this picture tin depict a tedious or worn blade, or a bad sharpening job. .. This blade will slide on the water ice like a ski and not bite in due to the bending being worn and information technology will just ride and rub on the top of the ice... It will only cutting when you apply down pressure with strength. ..

This picture show is of the dulled chipper blade... The yellow line shows the material to be removed (Practice NOT Acuminate A SHAVER BLADE Similar THIS READ FIRST Postal service)... We demand to remove enough material to make a new border that's free of this minute dull or flattened angle on the bottom (detect the yellow line is costless of the dulled edge, nosotros NEED to remove all of the flattened or dulled edge)... One time all of this material is removed we volition have a seriously sharp new edge...

This picture depicts a dull shaver blade (paw augers and some power augers) as to a higher place the xanthous line shows the material to be removed to betrayal a super sharp edge. .. We DO Non bear on the lesser of these blades...

Call up, building a burr along the ENTIRE edge permit's you know you've removed enough material (burr volition class on the tiptop of a chipper bract when sharpening and the lesser of a shaver blade, you MUST build a burr or yous are wasting your time leaving that dulled flat bending Below the new edge that will still ski on the water ice and not bite in). .. And so you lot tin hone your master edge...

Similar I said I made these pictures on my telephone, hopefully they get the point beyond...

A shaver blade equally seen on paw augers and some power augers you will take the cloth off the top until this tiresome border or flattened angle is removed. .. A burr on the bottom volition indicate yous've removed plenty textile. .. Then you tin strop your primary edge... ***In some instances you lot tin can just hone a new primary edge without performing a total regrind... granted you have practiced care of your blades and your auger is kind've cutting you can remove the microscopic dulled or flattened bottom this way. .. this touch up should simply be done once or twice earlier a total regrind. .. otherwise your main edge will become besides thick and brand for a lot of work to remove information technology and the thicker it gets the taller the edge gets and this will hinder performance bitter in... the chief bevel should only be about the thickness of a piece of thread... any more and you'll be grinding a while to remove it on a total regrind...

This postal service is to show why nosotros do not touch the lesser of shaver blades and keep a good angle on the lesser of a chipper blade. .. If y'all change the bottom angle, your blades will ski around on the water ice and not bite in unless you make the bending more acute (weaker) or the same (ideal)... That'south why the sharpening angles don't really matter every bit much (within reason of a good cutting border) on shaver blades. ..

On chipper blades we acuminate via the lesser. .. That'due south why we demand to pay attention to angle a flake more than. .. If y'all make the angle more obtuse it will ski around in circles and not bite in. .. A couple degrees won't hinder functioning only stay within a reasonable range from the mill...

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Is anyone using these methods?... If you're new to sharpening and y'all've followed these instructions, how'd ya practise!?

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I accept successfuly sharpened my own blades and completely, fully agree with everything you've written...

Proficient job!

Thanks for sharing!

<�)))>{

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Would the same method piece of work for my power auger?

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It is MY responsibleness to make sure my children can bask angling years from at present. Make certain your kids tin fish. If you lot run into something ILLEGAL Contact the Massachusetts Environmental Police force Radio Room at 1-800-632-8075 at any 60 minutes of the twenty-four hours. They might show up if there is plenty staff working.

Would the same method work for my ability auger?

What type of blade is on the auger? If it'due south a shaver blade with the cutting edge milled on top of the blade so yes, a chipper blade would be the same concept but a MUCH different arroyo... I will write a chipper blade upwards when I become my hands on ane again...

I oasis't seen a shaver bract with the cutting edge milled on the bottom but this may have been washed at i bespeak, I tin't say for sure there isn't that blazon out there... If and so, the same concept and method but the blade would be flipped over...

Feel costless to private message me a picture or link of the blade if necessary...

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first-class tutorial, pics and explaination. ty john

I accept successfuly sharpened my own blades and completely, fully agree with everything you've written...
Good chore!

Thanks for sharing!

<�)))>{

excellent tutorial, pics and explaination. ty john

Yous're welcome guys, Thanks for reading!

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I'1000 to much of a mechanical klutz to attempt it but that is some crawly instructions and I'yard certain it will assist a lot of people. Cheers for your time and effort.

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I'm to much of a mechanical klutz to try it merely that is some awesome instructions and I'yard sure it will assist a lot of people. Thank yous for your time and effort.

Haha, aye I gotcha...

It is not for everyone, a steady paw is needed and it will probably take some practice and a lot of patience before getting it right...

You're welcome!

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Nice work. Just too bad you had to employ those Prc made blades. I got mine abrupt once again by but doing the last honeing. Its nearly more fun to drill than fish. I use a Mora on a Tanaka Power Head. No work at all. You lot do not even need to run up the rpm. Just blirp it along.

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Thats Why They Call It Angling.

I would similar to acuminate the blades on my StrikeMaster Lazer auger. The problem is that the blades are curved so that the beveled edge is concave rather than convex along its length and tin non be laid apartment on a apartment sharpening stone. Any suggestions?
Thank you, Tony

Nice work. Just too bad you lot had to use those China made blades. I got mine precipitous again by just doing the last honeing. Its almost more fun to drill than fish. I use a Mora on a Tanaka Ability Caput. No work at all. You practice not even need to run upwards the rpm. Just blirp it along.

Yes, I would've much rather worked with some skillful steel merely this is what I had to work with...

Yup, if you lot feel your blades just need a quick impact up, ane can skip to step 4...

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I would like to sharpen the blades on my StrikeMaster Lazer auger. The problem is that the blades are curved and then that the askew edge is concave rather than convex forth its length and tin can not be laid flat on a apartment sharpening stone. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Tony

I'thou communicable what yous mean ii different means so I'll just go ahead and explicate both...

If information technology'due south a hollow grind, (concave grind) you tin sharpen information technology at the same angle touching the "toe" and "heel" of the secondary bevel while the middle of the bevel doesn't fully touch...

Simply realize that the "toe" or cutting edge will wear more speedily so the "heel" should be favored just a bit to retain a good angle for a master edge to be honed upon, if yous see the width of your grind getting wider on either toe or heel or throughout the length of the blade, favor the other side and brand sure the grinds are the same width throughout, this volition ensure y'all've removed material evenly... Exercise this only until your burr is formed... Information technology's non necessary to remove the entire hollow grind, we're just preparing the border for a new primary border...

You lot tin can all the same get a great, like new edge this style...

Somewhen the hollow grind later on many sharpenings will wear to a regular flat grind and even still, will exist able to be just every bit abrupt equally new... Hollow grinds are typically weaker anyways...

If information technology's a radius on the blade itself, and it won't sit apartment on the rock (I think this is what you're saying and might even be in conjunction with what'south mentioned in a higher place)... Get a rock that'southward not as wide (I take a set up of the 3 mentioned above that are simply about 3/8" broad and have some progressively wider just utilise the widest possible for ease of use)... Or cutting ane on a wet saw, chamfer the edges ever so slightly at 45 degrees and epoxy information technology to a tapered block of Maple every bit a pedestal with enough clearance to work the bract over and downwardly off the edge as you work the radius... The maple will also give the stone strength and this method should work only fine...

The aforementioned concept applies, y'all just have to pay attention to what y'all're doing and make the proper adjustments as yous grind... Realize you volition be grinding in a sweeping movement holding the blade perpendicular to the stone merely moving from one side to the other while grinding toward you lot to keep the grind consistent, and if there's any slight bend from border to border of the stone (if the blade nevertheless doesn't sit perfectly flat, the rock with less width will be very shut though) the remainder of the radius will quickly be transferred to the "not equally wide" stones... Then you will apply those stones for your auger only...

Y'all tin can besides purchase round or cylindrical sharpening stones, coarse, medium and an Arkansas rock... Mountain them accordingly and go to work...

Another method would be to put a radius on your stones past use of a jig and diamond tools...

If you want to get thrifty, spray adhesive and automotive moisture sand paper on a surface with a "quite smaller than" radius allowing you lot to "work" the blade, not an exact radius, that won't work well and as you tip up to strop the primary edge the radius will get tighter on the substrate, that won't work out well either... Using finer and finer grits, 400, 600, 1000 respectively... Paper works only equally skilful as stones just it doesn't "self renew" like a stone as it wears...

When in doubt, use an old set of blades and practice... Or exit it to the pros and have information technology done on a auto if you don't experience comfortable... I'thousand telling you though, information technology can be done by hand, with practise, and exist every bit good as new...

I can guarantee yous tin can put an amazing, razor sharp, like new edge on those blades using this method with very few adjustments...

Sounds like some work when explained in depth only realistically information technology's but a thing of getting a stone that's not every bit wide on a pedestal to allow the bract to exist rolled over it... But it'd be worth it once you lot go ready... I'd go with my less broad stones on this type of bract...

Feel costless to ask more questions...

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Prissy article A7X. Perchance you lot want to start a business!

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Life is hard ... even harder if you're stupid ...

Nice article A7X. Maybe you want to showtime a business!

Hey look who it is!
Thank you!

I run a free sharpening service for my friends equally of correct now, only maybe down the road I'll think of starting a small business... I honey doing this stuff and information technology's very rewarding honing a ridiculously sharp long lasting edge... The frightened expect on a friends face when they go their knife back and feel the border is kind've funny... Of course I warn them once more and once again just do they listen? Nope... Some of em won't allow me acuminate their knives anymore... Besides many stitches I guess... That being said I'thousand non entirely sure if they're the smart one's or impaired ones...

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thanks for sharing...and then how would you practice a standard jiffy blade (one blade only)...typical jiffy 30 blade. Equally of now i sharpen my ain on a motor wheel with 200 dust on the bicycle at a very constand angle with a made up jig..Very fast and seems reasonably sharp when done but not as sharp as factory...why is this? And aye...i do strope on leather subsequently. And yes...i do sharpen the point as per jiffy website instructions. The auger cuts good later on but not as fast as a new blade...this has always left me stumped.

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cheers for sharing...and then how would you do a standard jiffy blade (one bract only)...typical jiffy 30 blade. As of at present i sharpen my own on a motor bike with 200 grit on the wheel..very fast and seems reasonably precipitous when done but not as abrupt equally manufacturing plant...why is this? And yeah...i do strope on leather subsequently.

200 grit is fashion, mode, way, too rough... Also stropping on leather does zippo, especially later only 200 dust....

Did yous mean 2000 grit, because that would exist more than appropriate..

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Truly a great article! Very well written and photograph-documented, give thanks yous kindly for your attempt and for sharing your noesis.

Question most stones, are in that location ones in particular that y'all recommend? I could be opening upward a whole other give-and-take, but just wanted to know if there are particular grades and perhaps dimensions.

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I'm communicable what you mean ii different means so I'll just become ahead and explicate both...
If it's a hollow grind, (concave grind) you can acuminate it at the aforementioned bending touching the "toe" and "heel" of the secondary bevel while the eye of the bevel doesn't fully impact...

Just realize that the "toe" or cut edge will wearable more quickly so the "heel" should be favored just a bit to retain a good angle for a primary border to be honed upon, if you lot run across the width of your grind getting wider on either toe or heel or throughout the length of the blade, favor the other side and make sure the grinds are the same width throughout, this will ensure yous've removed material evenly... Do this only until your burr is formed... It's not necessary to remove the entire hollow grind, we're only preparing the edge for a new principal edge...

You can still become a great, like new edge this manner...

Eventually the hollow grind later many sharpenings will wear to a regular flat grind and fifty-fifty nevertheless, will exist able to exist simply as precipitous as new... Hollow grinds are typically weaker anyways...

If it'southward a radius on the blade itself, and it won't sit flat on the rock (I think this is what you lot're saying and might fifty-fifty exist in conjunction with what'southward mentioned to a higher place)... Get a stone that'south not as wide (I take a set of the iii mentioned above that are only most 3/viii" broad and accept some progressively wider but utilize the widest possible for ease of use)... Or cut ane on a wet saw, chamfer the edges ever so slightly at 45 degrees and epoxy it to a tapered block of Maple equally a pedestal with enough clearance to work the blade over and down off the edge as you work the radius... The maple will besides give the rock strength and this method should work just fine...

The same concept applies, y'all just have to pay attention to what you're doing and make the proper adjustments as you grind... Realize you volition be grinding in a sweeping motion holding the blade perpendicular to the stone but moving from one side to the other while grinding toward y'all to go along the grind consistent, and if there's any slight curve from edge to border of the stone (if the blade still doesn't sit perfectly apartment, the stone with less width volition be very shut though) the rest of the radius will rapidly exist transferred to the "not every bit wide" stones... And so you lot will use those stones for your auger only...

You tin can too purchase round or cylindrical sharpening stones, coarse, medium and an Arkansas stone... Mountain them appropriately and get to work...

Another method would be to put a radius on your stones by apply of a jig and diamond tools...

If yous want to become thrifty, spray adhesive and automotive wet sand paper on a surface with a "quite smaller than" radius allowing yous to "piece of work" the blade, not an exact radius, that won't work well and as you tip upwards to hone the master edge the radius will get tighter on the substrate, that won't work out well either... Using finer and finer grits, 400, 600, thousand respectively... Paper works only every bit good as stones but it doesn't "cocky renew" like a rock as it wears...

When in doubt, apply an old set of blades and practice... Or leave it to the pros and have it done on a machine if you don't experience comfortable... I'm telling you though, information technology tin can be done by hand, with practice, and exist as good as new...

I can guarantee you can put an astonishing, razor sharp, similar new edge on those blades using this method with very few adjustments...

Sounds like some work when explained in depth but realistically it's just a thing of getting a rock that's not as wide on a pedestal to allow the blade to be rolled over information technology... Just it'd exist worth information technology once you get set up... I'd become with my less wide stones on this type of blade...

Feel complimentary to ask more questions...

Thank you for your response. Yeah it's the radius of the blade that is the issue not that the edge is hollow footing (it is not). I'thousand non sure what I want to do at this time. If I decide to acuminate the blades myself, I'll let you know how I made out.
Again thanks,
Tony

Thanks for your response. Yes information technology's the radius of the blade that is the issue not that the edge is hollow ground (information technology is not). I'one thousand non sure what I want to exercise at this time. If I decide to sharpen the blades myself, I'll let you know how I fabricated out.
Once more thanks,
Tony

While I was at the local shop today (incoming plug) The Water ice Hole, Brookline NH ... Just for you, I looked at the lazer blades... A slimmer stone will practise the trick Hands!

It is quite a large radius so at that place won't exist a problem, I volition leave my other suggestions up equally they volition all work well with the proper technique post-obit the guidelines I presented in the article...

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thanks for sharing...so how would you practice a standard jiffy blade (1 blade only)...typical jiffy 30 blade. As of now i acuminate my own on a motor wheel with 200 dust on the wheel at a very constand bending with a made up jig..Very fast and seems reasonably abrupt when done only not every bit precipitous as factory...why is this? And yeah...i practice strope on leather after. And yes...i exercise sharpen the signal every bit per jiffy website instructions. The auger cuts good later on just not as fast every bit a new blade...this has always left me stumped.

200 dust is terrible for whatsoever blade... 400 is as low equally I'd go to do a Rough grind and then run progressively smoother (eg. 400, 600, k respective to my article), and there lies your trouble with the blades non beingness like new leaving out the fact that you can't perchance be honing a skilful primary edge if at all... And if you are, an edge that's ground with 200 grit is missing so much material (microscopically, visually to the trained eye) that you lot are creating a micro serrated edge, at that place is not plenty textile for a expert primary edge to be honed upon (basically you are making a "toothy" edge that's polished at the end of each tooth and not at all in betwixt, cutting the performance in one-half and worse afterwards a few uses) unless yous are honing it for a few hours to get rid of the serrations... These serrations are weak, they will fold up and the blade volition cutting similar crap, think of the tines on a fork, then take a spoon, leaving the handle out of the equation which one can yous bend more than easily?

If you take a jig ready and it grinds the blades nicely and you can get them both the same shape and size without heating them up too much (they will lose their hardness and atmosphere if overheated and wear prematurely), I advise you get some different college grit wheels to run your blades, also the primary edge needs to utilized hither every bit this is where the longevity, forcefulness and the ability to be much more sharp comes from...

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Truly a great article! Very well written and photo-documented, thanks kindly for your effort and for sharing your noesis.
Question about stones, are at that place ones in detail that you recommend? I could be opening up a whole other discussion, but just wanted to know if in that location are particular grades and perhaps dimensions.

You're opening up a can of worms here, go in the other room and open it yourself, I don't even wanna look within! I haven't turned a computer on in 4 years only I did to write this commodity, I'm not turning information technology dorsum on to write a lengthy mail on stones right now haha. .. I use my telephone for everything...

A slap-up entry level ready is something like the "smith's tri-hone" it has the stones you lot need to get started and is corking for all effectually use, woodworking, pocket knives, kitchen employ, or auger blades... Information technology runs close to $30 and is worth it to the beginner... You tin do an amazing task with a ready like this...

Realize if yous are sharpening the lazer blades I was speaking almost (with the gentleman typing in blueish) a 1"Due west x 6"50 prepare would be the way to go...

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Just another thanks for taking the time to create and post this terrific article!

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I tin can say from experience that when it comes to modifying/sharpening tools the all-time communication you can become volition come from an experienced die maker. Sometimes it'southward the hardest to learn to follow their direction considering unless you lot've seen or lived through what the results are for non paying this attention to detail that your efforts can be a total waste of time.
It seems sometimes what they do is fast because they have talents for getting things right the starting time time.
If auger bract sharpening isn't done right the beginning time, you'll be a while fixing it. Patience is your most reliable tool.

NBG

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Mecosta County / Lakeview, Michigan

Great read, TY for sharing i have been googling this for 2 years now and i was nearly excited when you said you would exist writing this.. Ive it wouldnt be to much to ask, could ya put together a step by pace with the Lazer blades, i think i have to completely wrong stones for doing it..

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As well to do it the all-time, and easiest way, it helps to have at least a medium and fine stone..

I just utilize a medium diamond rock and information technology works not bad...

Sure non getting the 100% sharp like A7X, only 97% still cuts really skilful compared to 60%

The methods described are gilt..

If y'all tin go your fillet knife precipitous enough to properly clean a fish (shave hair on your arm), and you follow the instructions A7X posted, that aforementioned stone should do ya pretty dang skillful...

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